Mamiya C3 Professional

Buying Tips

The C3 is a professional workhorse and heavier than most TLRs. Here is what to inspect before buying.

• Bellows: Hold the body up to a strong light with the back open and look for pinholes. This is the single most common issue on every Mamiya C-series body. Even small pinholes cause light leaks on film.
• Lens lock mechanism: The lens pair should lock securely into the body mount with a positive click. Wiggle the lens gently once mounted; any play indicates worn locking tabs.
• Parallax correction: The parallax correction mechanism should move as you focus. If the indicator is frozen, it may be a minor cosmetic issue or a sign of deeper mechanical problems.
• Seikosha shutter: Test all shutter speeds, especially the slow end (1s, 1/2s). The Seikosha-S shutters in C3-era lenses are generally reliable, but sluggish slow speeds mean the shutter needs a CLA (clean, lubricate, adjust).
• Body chrome: Chrome plating on the C3 can mask dents and dings. Run your fingers over the top plate and sides to feel for dents that the chrome hides visually. Cosmetic damage does not affect function but does affect resale value.
• Weight: The C3 is heavy. If you plan to shoot handheld, handle one in person before buying. Pair it with the 80mm f/2.8 standard lens, which is the most common and affordable in the C-series system.

See our complete TLR buying guide for a full inspection checklist.