Replacing the Leatherette on a TLR Camera
A practical guide to removing old covering and applying fresh leatherette to your twin-lens reflex
A worn, peeling leatherette is the most common cosmetic issue on vintage TLR cameras. The good news: it is one of the easiest and most satisfying repairs you can do yourself. A fresh covering transforms the look and feel of a camera, improves grip, and costs far less than professional restoration. This guide walks through the entire process from material selection to final trimming.
Why Leatherette Fails
Most TLR cameras left the factory with a thin vinyl or synthetic covering glued to the metal body. After decades, several things conspire against it:
- Adhesive breakdown — the original contact cement dries out and loses its bond over time, causing edges to lift and corners to curl
- UV damage — prolonged sunlight exposure makes vinyl brittle and prone to cracking
- Handling wear — decades of use wears down the texture pattern, especially on grip surfaces and around the focus knob
- Temperature cycling — repeated expansion and contraction from heat and cold weakens the bond and can cause shrinkage
- Chemical exposure — skin oils, cleaning products, and old case chemicals accelerate deterioration
If your leatherette is only lifting at the edges but otherwise intact, you can re-glue it with a thin layer of contact cement. But if it is cracked, shrunken, or missing pieces, full replacement is the better path.
Replacement Materials
| Material | Texture | Durability | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl (standard) | Various patterns | Excellent | Low | Closest to factory original; easy to work with |
| Genuine leather | Natural grain | Very good | Medium–High | Premium look and feel; requires more care during fitting |
| Synthetic leather | Leather-like | Good | Medium | Easier to cut than real leather; consistent thickness |
| Vulcanite-style | Fine pebble | Excellent | Low–Medium | Replicates the original look of many Japanese TLRs |
| Pre-cut kits | Varies | Varies | Medium | Model-specific templates; easiest option for beginners |
Pre-cut kits (available for most popular TLR models) eliminate the hardest part of the job — cutting precise shapes around knobs, windows, and frame counters. They cost a few dollars more than sheet material but save significant time and reduce the risk of mistakes. Recommended for your first re-cover.
Where to Buy
- Aki-Asahi — the gold standard for camera covering materials. Based in Japan, they offer pre-cut kits for dozens of TLR models and a huge range of colors and textures in sheet form. Fast international shipping.
- Cameraleather.com — US-based supplier with pre-cut kits and sheet materials. Good selection of textures including genuine leather and exotic patterns.
- Hugostudio — pre-cut kits for many camera models, including several TLRs. Competitive pricing.
- eBay — search for your specific model plus “leatherette kit” or “covering kit.” Quality varies — check seller reviews carefully.
Tools Needed
- Hobby knife or X-Acto — a fresh, sharp blade is essential for clean cuts
- Metal ruler — for straight edges when trimming sheet material
- Tweezers — fine-point tweezers help position covering around small cutouts
- Hair dryer or heat gun — low heat softens old adhesive for easier removal
- Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) — dissolves old adhesive residue
- Cotton swabs and lint-free cloths — for cleaning and applying solvent
- Contact cement — a thin, flexible adhesive. Pliobond is a popular choice among camera repair professionals
- Small plastic roller or brayer — for pressing the new covering flat without trapping air
- Masking tape — to protect areas you do not want to get adhesive on
- Cutting mat — protects your work surface
Step 1: Removing the Old Leatherette
Patience is the key word here. Rushing the removal is the fastest way to scratch the underlying metal or damage trim pieces.
Start at a Lifted Edge
Find a corner or edge where the covering has already lifted. If everything is still glued down, use a thin plastic spudger or your fingernail to gently lift one corner. Avoid metal tools at this stage — they can gouge the body.
Apply Low Heat
Use a hair dryer on low/medium heat, holding it 10–15 cm from the surface. Heat the area for 20–30 seconds. The warmth softens the old adhesive and makes the covering more pliable. Do not use high heat — you can damage the paint, internal lubricants, or plastic components.
Peel Slowly
Pull the covering back slowly at a low angle, applying heat as you go. If it resists, stop and heat some more rather than forcing it. Tearing the old covering into small fragments makes cleanup much harder.
Deal with Stubborn Adhesive
Old adhesive residue will remain on the metal body. Apply isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) with a cotton swab and let it soak for 30 seconds. Then gently rub with a lint-free cloth. For very stubborn residue, naphtha (lighter fluid) works well but use it sparingly and in a ventilated area.
If you are cutting your own replacement from sheet material (not using a pre-cut kit), keep the old covering pieces intact as templates. Flatten them under a book overnight, then trace around them onto your new material.
Step 2: Surface Preparation
A clean, residue-free surface is critical for a lasting bond. Do not skip this step.
- Remove all old adhesive — the surface should feel smooth with no sticky patches
- Clean with isopropyl alcohol and allow to dry completely
- Mask off any areas you want to protect: lens elements, viewfinder glass, film counter windows, and metal trim
- If the bare metal has any rust spots, gently clean with fine steel wool (0000 grade) and wipe down
Step 3: Installing New Covering
Dry-Fit First
Before applying any adhesive, hold each piece in place and verify the fit. Check that cutouts align with knobs, screws, and windows. For pre-cut kits, each piece is typically numbered or labeled — match them to the correct panel before gluing anything.
Apply Adhesive
Apply a thin, even coat of contact cement to both the camera body and the back of the covering material. Use a small brush or the nozzle tip. Less is more — excess adhesive will squeeze out at the edges and leave visible residue. Let both surfaces dry until tacky (typically 5–10 minutes depending on humidity).
Align and Apply
Contact cement bonds on contact, so positioning is critical. Start by aligning one edge — typically a straight edge along the top or bottom of a panel. Press it down lightly, then slowly lay the rest of the piece into place, smoothing from the anchored edge outward.
Press and Roll
Use a small brayer or roller to press the covering firmly onto the body. Work from the center outward to push any trapped air toward the edges. Pay extra attention to corners and around cutouts.
Trim Excess
If you are using sheet material, trim the excess with a sharp hobby knife. Cut against a metal ruler for straight edges. Around curves and openings, make small relief cuts to allow the material to follow the contour. Work slowly and keep the blade fresh — a dull blade will tear rather than cut.
Final Pressing
After trimming, go over the entire surface once more with the roller. Then let the camera sit untouched for at least 4–6 hours (overnight is better) to allow the adhesive to fully cure.
Model-Specific Notes
| Camera | Difficulty | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Yashica-Mat 124G | Easy | Large flat panels with simple shapes. Pre-cut kits widely available. The front panel around the meter window requires careful alignment. Original covering is thin vinyl. |
| Yashica-D / Yashica-A | Easy | Similar to the 124G but without the meter cutout. One of the easiest TLRs to re-cover. Great first project. |
| Rolleiflex 2.8/3.5 | Moderate | More complex panel shapes, especially around the crank and nameplate. The covering wraps around tighter curves. Use genuine leather for an authentic look. Aki-Asahi stocks excellent pre-cut kits. |
| Rolleicord | Easy–Moderate | Simpler body shape than the Rolleiflex. Watch the area around the film advance knob. Some models have a two-piece front panel. |
| Mamiya C220/C330 | Moderate | Large body with many flat surfaces but also interchangeable lens mounting area. The bellows area should not be covered. Multiple separate panels on front and sides. |
| Minolta Autocord | Easy–Moderate | Compact body with smooth curves. The LVS exposure meter window needs careful masking. The original covering is usually a fine-grain vinyl that ages relatively well. |
Original Rolleiflex cameras were covered with genuine leather, not vinyl. If you want to maintain the authentic look and feel, use a genuine leather kit. Aki-Asahi offers leather options in several colors that closely match the factory covering.
Custom Looks and Color Options
Replacing the leatherette is also an opportunity to personalize your camera. Beyond the standard black, suppliers offer a wide range of options:
- Classic colors — dark brown, tan, and burgundy give a vintage feel without straying too far from the original aesthetic
- Bold colors — red, blue, green, orange, and even pink are available for a distinctive look
- Texture patterns — lizard, crocodile, ostrich, and other embossed patterns add visual interest
- Contrast combinations — use one color or texture for the front panels and a different one for the sides
- Genuine leather — natural leather develops a patina over time that looks beautiful on vintage cameras
Whatever you choose, stick with materials sold specifically for camera covering. Generic craft leather or vinyl is often the wrong thickness and will not fit properly around the body contours.
Common Mistakes and Tips
- Using too much adhesive — this is the most common mistake. A thin, even coat is all you need. Excess glue squeezes out at edges and is very difficult to clean up once cured.
- Rushing the removal — tearing old covering off quickly often leaves fragments of material bonded to the body, making cleanup much harder than a patient, slow peel.
- Skipping the dry fit — contact cement bonds permanently on first contact. There is no repositioning once the surfaces touch. Always verify alignment before committing.
- Using the wrong adhesive — white glue (PVA), super glue, and double-sided tape are all poor choices. Use contact cement designed for flexible bonds. Pliobond and Barge are proven options.
- Cutting with a dull blade — swap in a fresh blade before you start trimming. A dull blade will drag and tear the material, leaving ragged edges.
- Forgetting to mask — adhesive on lens elements, viewfinder glass, or film counter windows is a headache to remove. Take two minutes to mask before you start gluing.
- Working in extreme temperatures — contact cement behaves differently in very cold or very hot conditions. Work in a room between 18–25°C for best results.
If you have never worked with contact cement and covering material before, practice on a small scrap piece first. Apply adhesive to both surfaces, let them tack up, press them together, and try trimming with your knife. Five minutes of practice will give you a feel for the materials before you commit to the real thing.
Related Guides
- Exterior Cleaning Guide — how to clean and polish the metal body before and after re-covering
- Buying a TLR Camera — what to look for when evaluating a used twin-lens reflex, including body condition
- Light Seal Replacement — another common DIY cosmetic and functional repair
- Understanding CLA — when to combine re-covering with professional service
Sources & Further Reading
- Aki-Asahi Custom Camera Coverings — extensive catalog of pre-cut kits and sheet materials; includes installation guides for many models
- Cameraleather.com — US-based supplier with material guides and fitting instructions
- Hugostudio — pre-cut covering kits for a range of camera models
- Photrio (APUG) Forums — community discussions on camera repair techniques including leatherette replacement