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Cases, Straps & Carrying TLR Cameras

How to carry, protect, and travel with your twin-lens reflex

A TLR camera is a substantial piece of equipment. Most weigh between 800g and 1100g — roughly twice a 35mm SLR — and their boxy shape doesn’t slip neatly into a jacket pocket. How you carry and protect your TLR makes a real difference to how often you actually take it out shooting. This guide covers every option, from original leather cases to modern bags, plus practical advice on travel and long-term storage.

The “Ever-Ready” Leather Case

Most TLRs were sold with a fitted leather case, often called an ever-ready case (ERC). The top flips open so you can shoot without removing the camera. The bottom stays attached, cradling the body.

Pros

• Full-body protection — covers all sides when closed, including the viewing hood and lenses
• Period-correct look — complements the vintage aesthetic of the camera
• Built-in strap lugs — the case itself has D-rings or strap points, reducing stress on the camera’s own lugs
• Quick access — flip the top open and you’re shooting in seconds

Cons

• Condition issues — most original cases are 40–70 years old. Leather dries out, stitching rots, and latches break. A deteriorating case can shed flakes of leather onto your camera.
• Moisture traps — old leather holds humidity against the camera body, encouraging fungus on lenses and corrosion on chrome
• Added bulk and weight — a leather ERC adds 200–350g and makes an already chunky camera even larger
• Difficult to replace — original cases for specific models (especially Rolleiflex Bay III) can be expensive and hard to source

Modern Case Alternatives

If the original ever-ready case is worn out or you want something lighter, several modern options work well with TLRs:

• Neoprene wraps (e.g., Tenba Protective Wraps) — lightweight, flexible, and protective. Wrap the camera for transport and unwrap to shoot. Available in multiple sizes; the 16" wrap fits most TLRs.
• Padded camera inserts — drop one into any bag you already own to create a custom camera compartment. Brands like Tenba, f-stop, and Peak Design make modular inserts.
• Small messenger bags — a compact messenger or sling bag sized for one camera body works well for street shooting. Look for interior dimensions of at least 15 × 12 × 12 cm.
• Drawstring pouches — simple padded pouches provide scratch and bump protection. Less structured than a case but lighter and cheaper.

Strap Options

The right strap depends on how long you shoot, how far you walk, and personal comfort. TLRs are heavier than they look, so strap choice matters more than with lighter cameras.

Strap Type	Best For	Weight Distribution	Quick Access
Neck strap	Short walks, studio	Poor — all weight on neck	Excellent
Shoulder strap	All-day shooting, travel	Good — across body	Good
Wrist strap	Active shooting, handheld	N/A — camera in hand	Immediate
Sling strap	Walking, street photography	Very good — diagonal	Good

Neck Straps

The classic approach. The camera hangs at chest level, ready to lift and shoot. Fine for an hour or two, but a 1 kg TLR on a narrow strap will dig into your neck over a full day. If you go this route, choose a wide, padded strap — at least 3.5 cm wide with a neoprene or memory foam pad.

Shoulder and Sling Straps

A cross-body sling distributes weight across your torso rather than hanging it from your neck. Brands like Peak Design (Slide and Slide Lite), BlackRapid, and OP/TECH make sling-style straps with quick-adjust mechanisms. The Peak Design Slide is a popular choice for medium format cameras thanks to its wide 45mm webbing and Anchor Link quick-disconnect system.

Wrist Straps

Best when you’re actively shooting and holding the camera. A wrist strap keeps the TLR secured to your hand without the bulk of a neck strap. Not ideal for long carries — you’re supporting the full weight in one hand — but excellent for controlled, deliberate shooting.

Attaching Straps to TLR Lug Points

TLR strap attachment varies by brand:

• Rolleiflex / Rolleicord — triangular split rings through the strap lugs on either side of the body. Some models have a single lug on the left side only.
• Yashica (Mat-124G, 635, etc.) — standard lug points on both sides of the body. Accept split rings or clip-on attachments.
• Mamiya C-series — wider strap lugs to handle the heavier interchangeable-lens bodies. Use sturdy split rings rated for the weight.
• Minolta Autocord — conventional side lugs. Standard split rings and strap connectors work fine.
• Seagull / Chinese TLRs — typically use stamped-metal strap lugs. Check for sharp edges that could fray a fabric strap; file smooth if needed.

Camera Bags for TLRs

If you carry more than just the camera — extra film, a light meter, filters, lens caps — you need a bag. Here are proven options for TLR photographers:

• Peak Design Everyday Sling (6L or 10L) — the 6L fits a TLR plus 2–3 rolls of film. The 10L adds room for accessories. Quick side access, weatherproof shell, and FlexFold dividers that adjust to the boxy TLR shape.
• Billingham Hadley Small — a classic choice for medium format photographers. Canvas and leather construction, brass fittings, and a main compartment that swallows a TLR with room to spare. Subtle and doesn’t scream “camera bag.”
• Domke F-5XB — a compact shoulder bag that fits one TLR snugly. Domke’s ballistic nylon is virtually indestructible. The bag breaks in beautifully over time.
• Generic padded inserts — if you prefer using a bag you already own (backpack, tote, messenger), a padded camera insert converts it into a camera bag. Look for inserts around 20 × 15 × 15 cm for a single TLR.
• Think Tank Retrospective 5 — a low-profile shoulder bag with silent, magnetic closures. Fits a TLR plus a few rolls and a phone. Good for street work where you want fast, quiet access.

Traveling with a TLR

Airport Security & X-Rays

Film and X-rays don’t mix — at least not at high doses. Here are the rules of thumb:

• Carry-on X-ray machines are generally safe for film ISO 800 and below. A single pass through a standard carry-on scanner is unlikely to fog ISO 100 or 400 film.
• CT scanners (increasingly common at airports) deliver higher doses and can damage film of any speed in a single pass. The US TSA began rolling these out widely, and they are more aggressive than older scanners.
• Checked baggage scanners use much higher energy. Never put unprocessed film in checked luggage.
• Request a hand inspection. In the US, TSA is required to hand-inspect film upon request. In Europe and Asia, policies vary — ask politely and arrive early. Remove film from canisters and place it in a clear ziplock bag to speed up the process.

Carry-On Tips

• Keep the camera in your personal item (under-seat bag) for quick access and to avoid overhead bin bumps.
• Wrap the camera in a neoprene wrap or place it in a padded insert inside your bag.
• Bring a small ziplock of silica gel packets to absorb moisture during flights.
• If you have film loaded in the camera, note that carrying it through security with film inside is fine — the camera itself does not need to go through separately.

Weather Protection

TLR cameras were not designed with weather sealing. Rain, sand, and salt spray are genuine threats.

• Rain covers — purpose-made rain covers for medium format cameras are available but uncommon. A more practical solution: a clear plastic bag with a hole cut for the taking lens. Secure it with a rubber band around the lens barrel.
• The plastic bag trick — carry a gallon-size ziplock bag in your kit at all times. If rain starts, slip the camera inside. You can still operate the controls through the thin plastic, or cut a small opening for the lens.
• Lens hoods — a metal lens hood protects against both stray light and light drizzle hitting the front element.
• Dry immediately — if the camera does get wet, wipe it down with a microfiber cloth as soon as possible, paying attention to the seams around the viewing hood and the film door. See our exterior cleaning guide for more detail.

Protecting the Viewfinder & Ground Glass

The waist-level finder on a TLR is one of its most distinctive features — and one of its most vulnerable parts. The ground glass focusing screen is exposed when the hood is open and can be scratched by keys, coins, or careless handling.

• Close the hood when not shooting. This is the simplest protection. Make it a habit.
• Never touch the ground glass. Fingerprints are difficult to clean without risking scratches. If dust lands on it, use a blower — not your breath, which deposits moisture.
• Store the camera hood-side-up or on its back (lens facing up) to avoid pressure on the hood mechanism.
• Carry a microfiber cloth for the viewing lens and ground glass. A lens pen also works well for the mirror and glass surfaces.

Storage at Home

When the camera is not in use, how you store it affects its long-term condition:

• Silica gel packets — place one or two inside the storage area (not touching the camera directly) to control humidity. Replace or recharge them every few months.
• Temperature — store at room temperature. Avoid attics, garages, and anywhere with large temperature swings, which cause condensation.
• Avoid direct sunlight — UV degrades leather, lubricants dry out faster, and the viewing screen can yellow over time.
• Leave the shutter uncocked — storing a camera with the shutter spring under tension for months or years can weaken it.
• Open the leather case — if you store the camera in its ERC, leave the top open or store the case separately. A closed leather case traps moisture.
• Fire the shutter periodically — even if you are not shooting, cycling the shutter every month or two keeps the lubricants from setting. Run through all shutter speeds.

Carrying Options by Use Case

Use Case	Recommended Carry	Why
Street shooting	Neck or sling strap, no bag	Maximum agility; camera always ready at chest height
Travel	Shoulder bag + neoprene wrap	Protection in transit; easy access when exploring
Studio	No strap; set on table or tripod	Straps get in the way on a tripod; keep the camera clean and accessible
Day hike	Sling strap + padded backpack insert	Weight distributed well for walking; camera secured when scrambling
Weekend trip	Billingham or Peak Design bag	Room for camera, 5–10 rolls of film, and small accessories
Quick errand	Wrist strap, camera in hand	Grab and go; no bag overhead for a short outing

Related Guides

• Buying a TLR Camera — what to look for when purchasing, including case and strap condition
• Exterior Cleaning & Care — how to clean the body, chrome, and leather covering
• Lens Cleaning — safe techniques for cleaning the taking and viewing lenses
• Loading 120 Film — step-by-step film loading for TLR cameras
• TLR Accessories & Hacks — lens hoods, filters, cold shoes, and other add-ons
• Sticky Shutters & Mechanical Issues — why regular use and proper storage keep shutters healthy

Sources & Further Reading

• Prochnow, C. — Rollei Report (historical reference on Rolleiflex accessories and cases)
• Kodak — Protecting Film from X-Ray Damage
• TSA — Film screening policies and hand-inspection rights
• Peak Design — Camera strap lineup and Anchor Link system
• Billingham — Hadley bag specifications and sizing
• Japan Camera Hunter — articles on traveling with film and X-ray safety
• r/AnalogCommunity (Reddit) — community discussions on TLR carrying setups and bag recommendations